That is all.
That is all.
A recent podcast (Scottish Watches, with Adam Craniotes) there was a nice side discussion of the nature of men’s watches. “Metal Barbie dolls,” to paraphrase, and it did inspire a thought or two.
This is the watch on my wrist now – Seiko SBGX117, a Grand Seiko quartz diver made between 2014 and 2017. 42mm, steel, titanium hands, thermocompensated quartz movement accurate to ten seconds per year. List price was about 4k USD new, I got it used in a trade for about about 2500.
If you’re curious, Ariel wrote a nice review here on ABtW.
I’ve also been enjoying this Scurfa recently too:
And of course my even-more-accurate 9F GMT:
For men in the western culture milieu, the only socially acceptable forms of jewelry are the watch and wedding band. There are few exceptions, of course; I’m speaking in generalities here for cishet.
And we’re not allowed to ever, ever call them ‘pretty.’ It has to be masculine, engineering-focused, etc. All gendered language. Yet all the while, we’re always looking for beauty, even if we call it proportion, ratio, finishing and craftwork.
We are, however, allowed to Seek Truth, and for that quartz is king. There’s a wonderful well of difficult problems, interesting physics and obsessive engineering required to make a really accurate timekeeper, and these Seiko 9F movements are among the finest ever made. For that matter, I have a lot of meetings these days, often over video with remote participants, so it is super useful to know the precise time.
So watches are how we thread the needle of societal expectations. We can enjoy manly bonding over our shiny jewelry while still performing masculinity. And hey, it really does come in handy to know what time it is with a watch that can get wet, handle rough treatment, lasts a decade or more and doesn’t require charging every day or two and setting every week.
I’ve come full circle on quartz as I transition from watch geek/writer into ‘person who needs a good watch’.
Bought this ages ago but finally tried it. The stiffness works well with the large Seiko and it’s quite comfortable, which was a nice surprise. Find it on Amazon. 13 bucks.
I chose this at Costco, and my then-girlfriend and mother both contributed to it.
Basic Seiko, 7T32 quartz with chronograph, alarm and lume dial. Served me all through grad school and Fermilab, only to be replaced by a Blue Angels Citizen when I started flying. I recently sent it to Seiko in NJ for a battery, gaskets and crystal and am rediscovering why I loved it. It’s just a wonderful, versatile, easy to wear thing that disappears on the wrist.
A seiko quartz isn’t going to impress anyone; it’s not a luxury item. More a superb functional with a design that takes time to appreciate.
SNE498. Good indeed.
And I can’t wait for my OWC to get back.
Spiffy, isn’t it? BluShark “AlphaShark Slim” 22mm camel NATO with PVD black hardware. As usual, I trimmed off the extra layer and shortened it to declutter.
I like it. Black on gold paired with the converse is pretty darn spiffy.
I need to write a long post about this one. For now just a picture will have to do.
SBDB015 on a modified Toxic NATO. So crisp and legible.
I’m fine with all these except for 1 thing, this is not a completely new caliber from Seiko Japan. In fact, it was first introduced way back in 2007 as the 4L25 and was finally discontinued in 2013 as the 4L75, before being resurrected in 2018 here as the 6L35.
S/he (author is anonymous as per their about page) does a very deep dive that I cannot recommend enough, and from it surmises that Seiko, to my surprise, is the source of the Soprod A10 calibre!
Not surprising, Seiko did succeed to some extent in this as it was thought that Soprod eventually licensed this design from Seiko and produced the Soprod A-10 caliber from this base caliber. Note that neither company have ever acknowledge who really designed the movement and who licensed it.
Well, that’s interesting. Here’s a picture of the A10, as seen in my OWC 6538:
Who actually does the hard work of designing movements, where they are made and such are typically among the least disclosed bits of information, so this is a welcome ray of sunshine and well worth your time.