Yes Equilibrium

So this arrived today:

That’s the Equilibrium, the new model from Yes Watches. I had a small but prolonged role as an engineering consultant and got to visit Hong Kong twice as part of it. I chose the shiny black titanium case and orange accents because by golly I’m proud and I want you to ask me about it!

It took years of engineering and manufacturing obstacles, and of course a world financial crisis too, that didn’t exactly help. Bjorn et al: ya done great.

And today is tax day, I’m finishing ours on TurboTax, where I work and also have a small role. I’m proud of that, too. 😉

Quartz, distilled

I’ve magnetized a few watches, which is a pain: the watch will start running fast, which takes a while to notice, and it’s tricky to be sure that magnetism is the cause. I’ve read that you can hold your watch near a compass and if the compass deflects then that’s evidence of induced magnetism and you can then DIY with a demagnetizer coil.

If that reminds you of hand-cranking a car to start the engine, then yeah.

All of which kind of violates the first implicit contract between a watch and its owner: Keep time.

Quartz is much less susceptible, and of course a better keeper of time, so while I wait for the new 9F watches from Seiko, I’ve done some reading.

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Image credit: hashhashin on WUS

This is the Casio Oceanus OCW-S100F, in it’s -2AJF flavor. Solar powered, radio set, titanium case with titanium carbide surface finish, available in a few different color ways, most notably IMHO black vs plain metal bezel. From a design perspective, its the least-obtrusive world timer/perpetual calendar I’ve seen, and garners universal praise as a travel watch that won’t get you mugged.

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Image credit: verrauxi on TimeZone

I like the metal bezel version, myself (OCW-S100-1AJF). A tiny bit of blued metal detailing on the hands, and notably Casio got Seiko to do the casework using their Zaratsu (tin wheel) polishing, so by all accounts its superbly made and finished.

It’s even got decent lume:

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Image credit: Seiya

Anyway, if you’re in the market for a watch, worth a look. It’s extraordinary enough to have a 9-page thread on WUS, a glowing review on usually-snobby TimeZone and a rave on WatchTalkForum.

These are JDM, so a bit of a pain to buy:

Poor mans’ Corum Golden Bridge

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Image credit: Atto Verticale

Atto Verticale TO/03‘, $352.80. A very unusual baguette movement that was clearly inspired by the Corum:

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Image credit: Corum

I’m not a fan of Corum, but for the Golden Bridge I’m happy to make an exception. (Though it’s $$$; out of my budget). The Atto Verticale is interesting, though I’m not sure how much I’d enjoy it after the new wore off. Nice to see some new ideas out there regardless. They sell it in round and rectangular cases, anodized aluminum, different colors for a nice and unusual look.

via Atto Verticale

Origins of the Soprod A10

I do love a deep dive and a bit of detective work. Over at Musings of a Watch Addict, we have a superb example of both where the author traces Seiko’s ‘new’ 6L35 calibre as introduced in the SJE073:

I’m fine with all these except for 1 thing, this is not a completely new caliber from Seiko Japan. In fact, it was first introduced way back in 2007 as the 4L25 and was finally discontinued in 2013 as the 4L75, before being resurrected in 2018 here as the 6L35.

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Image credit: Musings of a Watch Addict

S/he (author is anonymous as per their about page) does a very deep dive that I cannot recommend enough, and from it surmises that Seiko, to my surprise, is the source of the Soprod A10 calibre!

Not surprising, Seiko did succeed to some extent in this as it was thought that Soprod eventually licensed this design from Seiko and produced the Soprod A-10 caliber from this base caliber. Note that neither company have ever acknowledge who really designed the movement and who licensed it.

Well, that’s interesting. Here’s a picture of the A10, as seen in my OWC 6538:

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Image credit: Watchbase

Who actually does the hard work of designing movements, where they are made and such are typically among the least disclosed bits of information, so this is a welcome ray of sunshine and well worth your time.

via The “new” Seiko 6L35 caliber introduced in the Presage SJE073J1/SARA015, or is it? | musingsofawatchaddict

Ratcheting/extensible clasps

I was reading OceanicTime: ORIS ProDiver GMT and the last image reminded me:

ORIS ProDiver GMT 06.jpgImage credit: OceanicTime

That’s a nice clasp. If you look close, it has two side buttons, and when pressed you can lengthen or shorten the strap by about 1cm.

This is a brilliant feature and every strap and bracelet should have it.

Here are the ones I’ve seen, reviewed or coveted:

gp-8.jpgImage credit: ABtW

That’s the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II, from my review on ABlogToWatch.com. That was the first time I had ever seen one, as as noted in the review, they’re a damned fine idea.

Rolex introduced their Glidelock (details here) and it’s on several of their models now:

inside_Sub_clasp.jpgImage credit: minus4plus6.com

I owned a Tudor Pelagos for a while; it has a superb clasp and adds a spring-tensioned mode; probably the best of any design I’ve used:

02-light-and-resistant.jpg Image credit: Tudor

That’s not a great picture, here’s a better one found via Pinterest:

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It’s more complicated but works better.

The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 I owned had one but I disliked it: too thick, sharp bits that poke the wrist and awkward to use.

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Omega makes one too, part number 117stz001154, has quite a few fans:

IMG_2792 (1).jpg Image credit: WatchUSeek

IWC Mark XVIII (18) looks elegant:

Image credit: AblogToWatch

Now, with all of those (and others that I’ve missed), you’d think that buying one would be easy.

Or at least possible. Nope. This is one of the very few that I’ve found:

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Image credit: Strapcode

It’s just OK, compared to the others, and they want $63 for it, more if you want it in PVD black.

Formex sells clasps designed to work with normal 2-piece watch straps. They’re pricy at $65 to $120. I’ve not seen one in person.

Hey watch companies: Please add these to every bracelet you sell! And the dive straps too.

Update: There’s now an entire site devoted to this, called https://tolmia.blogspot.com/ where ‘tolmia’ stands for ‘tool-less microadjust’.

More please!

OWC 6538 today

Soprod A10 (high end stuff) movement, killer anti reflective coatings on both sides of the sapphire, lumed ceramic bezel, beautiful machining and at 40 by 12.9mm, wears great. The 6538 big crown from my friend Dan at OWC. Band is a Toxic Shiznit, modified to remove the extra layer and cut to length.

Both are awesome.

I mean, look at how clean the knurling is and the polish on the sides. The value proposition here is tremendous. I’ve been wearing Dan’s watches for close to a decade, and consider him a close friend, so I’m biased as heck, but damn he makes fine watches.

Coming soon to a WIS near you

So there was a thread on the Seiko forum on WatchUSeek, and these two images turned up, four as-yet-unreleased Grand Seiko quartz watches, 9F calibre, sporting a new GMT complication in a case seemingly identical to the SBGM series. SBGN001G in yellow, B8T007 LE minus the bezel, and SBGN007 for black. Blue is clipped.

A stint of diligent googling and watching the Basel 2018 feeds and there’s no more news yet. Soon, I expect, as part of the anniversary releases this year. Need it? No, but I am super interested anyway, enough to sell one or two to get one… Soon, my pretty, soon…

Update: 007/001 typo, oops.

Update: Timeless has placeholder pages for the SBGN001 and SBGN007, listing the color of the SBGN007 as green. Interesting! List prices are given as $3,500 and $3,200 respectively.

Update 7/30/18: Timeless has pulled their pages, but here’s a German retailer listing the SBGN003, SBGN005 and SBGN007. Soon….

Update 8/31/18: Grand Seiko 9F GMTs are out!

Update 10/30/18More pictures and details

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