The world in ultraviolet

After watching this very cool video I went shopping for a UV camera. They are super rare, much harder to find than the infrared camera I got some time ago. I found the Sunscreenr for $80:

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There seem to be, at present, none that are iOS compatible, so this was the best option that I could find. It’s took a while to find an Android device from the pile and get it working. (I had to buy a special USB OTG cable to connect my Yubikey for 2FA, really silly!) but its up and working, and friends, the world in UV is weird:

Things to note: My glasses reflecting and blocking UV (just like it says on the tin), skin damage seems more visible, and my light grey car looks almost black. The sky is grey and my daily face sunblock seems pretty good.

So far, it’s money well spent – I’ve already used it as quality control on the kids’ application of sunblock. It’s a good investment if you live someplace as sunny as this.

Gigabit internet, the WiFi link

So now that I’ve got “Gigabit” home Internet I’m doing reading about WiFi, because my WiFi tops out around 400ish megabits (45MB/sec) of usable throughput. While researching, I found more bandwidth-testing sites as linked above. The fast.com site is something Netflix made, which is a great idea since that’s there core business and they can refer customers there for a quick test. I don’t actually have 1.3gigabit, but it’s a flattering screenshot. 😉

On Wifi, I get

Screenshot 2018-09-16 10.08.50

That’s an Apple Airport Extreme (A1521) and MacBook Pro (Retina, 13″, early 2015, A1502) using 802.11ac, on a 5GHz/80MHz channel. From what I’ve read so far, maximum WiFi usable (ie HTTP) goodput is around 650Mbits, so I’m not far from best-case. Our house is around 1800 square feet, so a single access point provides great coverage, the issue right now is that a gigabit ‘net drop is just plain faster than the wifi you can buy right now. 😉 First world problems

The Airport Extreme is and has been an excellent choice. It does 3×3 MIMO, according to the wonderful Mactracker. From opening System Information/WiFi on the laptop, I appear to have the Broadcom BCM43xx. I know from the Ars Technica article that some MacBooks have the BCM94360CS with 3×3 MIMO; if I do that’d explain my good speed results.

One of the advantages gained by spending more on Apple hardware; it’s lasted well and is better engineered. I bought them in 2014 and 2015 respectively, so this is not new.

Advice

I’m going to hold fast and not buy anything for now. For my friend Tom, whose laptop is older, I’d recommend a ‘600Mbit USB AC WiFi’ off of Amazon for $15. The Airport Extreme was discontinued this year, but they can be found used easily and its 3×3 with 6 antennas really has been superb.

For gigabit in general, see my other posts – you really need to be thorough choosing modem, router and switch before you try to do WiFi.

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via Internet Speed Test | Fast.com

Where to buy watch straps

A friend asked me for a few sources of watch straps, so I’ll start a page here that I can share around. I’ve bought a lot of straps and bracelets, probably in the 1-2k range if you count watch-specific bracelets, so I’ve got lots of opinions to share. Here’s a quarter of my current collection:

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But first, Paul’s Rules for Strap Acquisition:

Rule 1: Always

… buy the bracelet. Often, watches are offered with and without the bracelet. Buy the bracelet when you get the watch even if you don’t want it immediately.

Why?

Because bracelets are specific to a watch. In particular, the end links are nearly impossible to fit and/or find properly. So buy the bracelet; swap it it out if you want but I’ve never once regretted having it. They cost a lot more if you return post-sale to buy the bracelet by itself. For example, IWC wants over $1,000 for an Aquatimer bracelet.

Similarly, if the factory strap has a ratcheting/extensible clasp, buy it. See that post for reasons and details.

Rule 2: Never

… buy the factory leather straps. They’re OEM’d anyway, the markup is severe, and since leather only lasts a year or two, your value for money is poor. Buy a fancy custom one from ABP or Camille Fournet if you want, it’s still a better deal.

If the factory buckle or deployant is to your liking, you can often buy them separately and they are easily fitted to a strap.

Rule 3: Rarely

… buy watches with non-standard lugs. Oris Aquis, IWC Aquatimer, VC Overseas, Tudor North Flag… all great watches, but finding third-party straps is at least a hundred times more difficult.

Let’s Spend Some Money

This page will probably need lots of expansion and edits; for now I’ll sketch out the major topics and links for later. Leave a comment if you want, it’d be good to know which pieces are useful to know more about.

How to Shop

I was going to write this up, but this Barton page does it better. Read that and come back. Covers sizing, how to fit a NATO, wrist size and more.

If you want more opinions, there’s a WUS forum dedicated to straps and bracelets that is a deep well of knowledge.

Shops and Vendors

High-end leather

For leather, I recommend kangaroo for versatile/comfort, Cordovan for sheer beauty, and calf for comfort/price. You can get real alligator, but it’s import/export controlled, meaning that you need paperwork to sell a watch with a gator strap, and the one I bought isn’t all that awesome.

  • ABP High end, think 200$ per strap and up, first-rate reputation and well worth a visit if you’re in Paris.
  • Camille Fournet Also high end, the last RGM I bought had a CF strap, probably mostly 100 and up.
  • Hodinkee Nice stuff, also expensive, well photographed and curated, overpriced in my opinion.
  • Worn and Wound Similar to Hodinkee but about 80% of the price.
  • Christopher Ward sells a superb Cordovan leather strap with a Bader deployant (found via this review) that is amazing. It’s not cheap at $125, but the quality of the leather and clasp is easily 3x the price, there’s no discernible difference from the Omega deployant and leather. I bought one of these for my Omega Globemaster and I love it.
  • I’ve bought bunch of varied mid to high end straps from Global Watchband, they also sell alligator from $200 to $400 each. I get my Hirsch from them as well as my Cordura.
  • OWC Kangaroo – the best $100 strap that I’ve ever seen. 20mm only, with fixed tubes that necessitate drilled lugs, but OMFG ‘roo leather is the best. Full review to follow.

Pricy but cool

Erika’s Originals MN straps are like $80 each, but the backstory (French parachutists, see this story) and actual straps are very cool. I have two, and they work on lugs from 20 to 22mm and are pretty good especially in hot weather.

As of August 2018, Erika has a lower-priced competitor in The Watch Steward. According to this WUS thread they are solid competition. I’ve not seen them yet.

Also cool is the Hirsch Robby sailcloth. It’s $110, very expensive for a rubber strap, but the build detailing and comfort are worth it to me. Instead of a slab of rubber, it’s articulated and vented, so you can wear it with less induced sweat when the weather heats up:

hirsch-performance-robby-perforated-sailcloth-and-rubber-lined-watch-band-22mm-robby-091-xx-940-50-16

the Robby is my pick for best rubber strap I’ve had.

Segmented polyurethane

Screenshot 2018-08-28 14.39.46

I think these were introduced with the JLC Navy Seals or maybe the Luminox 3000 series. It’s made a like a bracelet, with individual links, but instead of metal the links are plastic and thus very lightweight. They’re a bit pricy at $35, but I quite like mine. Also note that you can use an Exacto to fit them into smaller lugs, I shaved a 22mm into a 20mm and it looks okay. Get them on Amazon.

Affordables

You don’t need to spend a hundred bucks to get a great strap, let’s talk both vendors and materials for straps that you can afford and stock up.

Vendors

  • B&R Bands is great. Straps under ten bucks, all sorts of materials, some with quick release, a good way to try a few styles and colors.
  • eBay and Amazon, of course.

Materials and styles

Silicone rubber – undoubtedly the Barton 2-piece silicone:

Soft_Blue_950141b0-0d24-450d-bfa8-93c9134afd1f

This are about 1/9th the price of the Robby and have quick release, it shouldn’t surprise you that I have quite a few of these!

Canvas

I used to buy these from Timefactors and had quite a few:

canvas-5

However, they no longer list them, so now I buy and recommend the Barton 2-piece quick release, which I get via Amazon. Well made and I love the quick-release straps.

Nantuckett_Blue_fc85d7e5-6a12-434f-8fa9-8fc75c12bb27

Nato & Zulo

So many options! Here, my favorite vendors are:

  • BluShark makes high-quality seatbelts especially, the AlphaShark here on my Seiko is a very comfortable strap.
  • Haveston makes really cool and thicker straps with pretty color ways. I’ve yet to buy one though.
  • ToxicNATOs has gotten more of my business than all others combined – their Blue Falcon and ShizNit (seatbelt) straps are my go-to favorites. Highly recommended.

Perlon

These are different. They fit literally any wrist, since the tang goes into the weave, and they’re like eight bucks each on cheapestnatostraps.com. I bought a fistful and promptly lost them all to my daughter who loves being able to color-match any outfit in a few seconds. Good in warm weather, waterproof but can poke your skin a bit with loose plastic and they definitely look a bit cheap.

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Bracelets

As I said above, this is hard. Here’s the only time I’ve managed good end-link fitment:

IMG_2564

That’s a cheap ($20ish) 3-link Oyster with hollow end links, that I painstakingly hand-filed to fit the watch. It took a couple of hours, and the bracelet is still uncomfortable with sharp edges. So yeah, but the factory if you possibly can.

For bracelets, start at Strapcode. Good stuff. I’ll have more posts on bracelets since there’s lots of depth here to explore.

How to be a star | Dan Dreams of Coding

This is a bad place to be. You’re working hard. You’re creatively finding solutions to company problems. The developer next to you gets kudos just for doing their job, while your hard work and great ideas get ignored, and you get branded as being unreliable. The reason is simple – no matter how valuable you believe your side projects to be, your manager, business partners, and coworkers are depending on you for something else. If you aren’t delivering your assigned tasks on time and with a high level of quality, then anything else you’re working on is going to be ignored at best, seen as self-indulgent at worst.

It’s hard to find good career advice for software developers. This piece, which I’ve read half a dozen times, really is excellent start to finish. I’ve forwarded it around at work, bookmarked it and plan to share it when mentoring. Highly recommended.

via How to be a star | Dan Dreams of Coding

Brutalist Web Design

A website’s materials aren’t HTML tags, CSS, or JavaScript code. Rather, they are its content and the context in which it’s consumed. A website is for a visitor, using a browser, running on a computer to read, watch, listen, or perhaps to interact. A website that embraces Brutalist Web Design is raw in its focus on content, and prioritization of the website visitor.

A name that I dislike, but a set of ideas that I find compelling and worth pursuing. Well worth your time to read and contemplate.

via Brutalist Web Design

2018 Chevrolet Bolt EV

So after a serious consideration of the Zero DS-R electric motorcycle, we ended up with a three year lease on… this!

2018-07-02 16.21.51

That’s the 2018 Chevrolet Bolt EV, in Premium trim. I’ll try and explain how we got here, and maybe someone else will find the information useful in deciding on a car.

What I Need

Five days a week I commute to work. In the morning, I take this route:

Screenshot 2018-07-13 15.15.13

Sixteen to seventeen miles, almost all freeway, basically zero congestion once I’m on the freeway.

In the evenings, I plan to use this route:

Screenshot 2018-07-13 15.15.27

Here’s why, and this is key: Highway 15S has a carpool/HOV lane all the way down to 163, and it’s two lanes and very rarely slowed down. So if I can get an HOV sticker it’ll save immense stress and time. I’ve used this route a few times carpooling, so I’m confident here.

The alternate route, back down 805, is always a parking lot, even the HOV lane is slow, so that’s definitely worse.

Requirements from this: About 170 miles per week, HOV approval a must.

Other things that I want:

  1. Electric or fuel cell powered. I want the simplicity and reliability of electric, along with the lessened need for servicing. Fuel cell is an interesting alternative that I’ll consider because it’s New and Cool and worth some effort to me. I’m not interested in hybrids. Also, Intuit has free EV chargers and I’d like to use them.
  2. Fun to drive – ‘good’ acceleration and agility; I drive calmly but I appreciate these even during a commute. My benchmark is our 1998 Audi A4 sport, which was a 2900 lb turbo with 150HP.
  3. Compact, wheels towards the ends, so that it’s easy to park and maneuver. Locally the parking spaces tend to be narrow with little room to turn as land is expensive. City car, basically, but balanced with a long enough wheelbase to be stable on the freeway.
  4. Apple CarPlay. It’s so much better than automotive software that I won’t get a car without it.
  5. Good backup and if possible 360 cameras. Once you’ve had them, they’re worth it.
  6. Price is an issue. The Tesla S and X are out of reach. As of this writing, the model 3 is only available in higher-spec versions with purchase only.

Other factors

There was a local (southern California) promotion that offered $10K off of a BMW i3 and $3K off the Nissan Leaf, until July 31 2018. That provided the impetus to get me looking, and if you move fast the offer is still open. There’s also the $2,500 CA rebate and $7,500 federal if you buy and $2500 CA for a lease.

If you read carefully, HOV stickers expire after three years and cannot be renewed. So if, like me, you want continued access, a lease is suddenly quite appealing. Residual values on 3-year off-lease EVs are mostly terrible, by the way, partially because of this and partially because the technology is improving very rapidly.

I was initially agog for the Zero DS-R but Chris made three points:

  1. If we get a car, it’s feasible for me to help with kid pickup and drop-off, which is quite limited with a motorcycle.
  2. Safety – she won’t worry nearly as much about me inside of a car.
  3. Cost – there’s no lease on the Zero,  at $21K or so it costs more than a 3-year car lease.

BMW i3S

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The i3s is a small to medium sized tweak of the i3, increasing the power by about 10% and improving the tires and suspension. Range is about 110 miles, so it’d just exceed the current tank range of my Piaggio BV350. It comes with 2 years of free DC fast charging, is very fun to drive, has a supercool design and F1-grade materials. (Carbon fiber polymer chassis and most of the rest aluminum.) Purchase price at high trim is about $57K, minus 10K state/federal and 10K utility works out to $37K. Lease deal we were offered was $453 a month, about 5K down, 10K miles per year for three years.

You can get a hybrid version, the i3s REX, but I’m not interested and didn’t pursue it.

Negatives on the i3s:

  • Short range. It’s 30kWh battery is small, so it’d be quite limited even with fast charge available.
  • Suicide doors. I was fine with these, but Chris hated them and pointed out that kids in the back seat could not exit the car unless the front seat opened both doors; i.e. drop off and pick up is a hassle. This really bothered her.
  • Expensive for the materials and range.
  • The BMW brand, at least locally, has some social stigma and negative driver/owner stereotypes. Chris felt more strongly about this than I; personally I think that i3 drivers are behaviorally different from, say, 3-series sedans, but there we disagreed.

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Nissan Leaf 2018

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Friends of ours have a slightly older Leaf, and we’d tested the 2017 model, so we were hopeful for the 2018. Range has increased to 150 miles, the shape got less distinctive and the materials more luxurious; all good news to me. However, when we went to test drive it, the restyled center console wedged my knee into the steering wheel unmercifully; no way to fix it. And that was that for the Leaf.

But if you’re not 208cm (6 foot 10), it’s a fine car, well priced and well made.

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Tesla Model 3

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Several co-workers have these and they look to be fine autos. As noted above, I can’t currently lease one, wait times are 4 to 24 weeks, current models run about 45k after rebates and even that’s uncertain as Tesla has just exceeded the mandated cap of 200K vehicles for the federal max refund: costs are rising.

Other mild annoyances – I strongly prefer knobs for things like temperature and volume, and the 3 is almost all touch screen. It’s also shaped more low-slung, which for commuting I like sitting more upright.

If I had a longer commute or unavoidable traffic I’d have considered it more; co-workers who use Autopilot to survive gridlock have praised it to the skies. Used Model S with Supercharger access are also of similar price.

Chevy Bolt Premier

2018-07-02 16.21.35

I required quite a bit of research to even consider this car. When I was growing up, American cars were crap, unreliable, poorly made and overpriced. That logo presented a formidable mental block!

However, as I read and learned more, I was impressed enough to go and drive one and came away very surprised. Frankly, it feels as well made and as luxurious as the BMW i3s, and is just as fun to drive.

Yeah, I was shocked too.

Check this out: the BMW i3s is 181HP and 3005lbs, so 15.1 pounds per horsepower. The Bolt is 200HP and 3569 lbs, so 17.8 pounds per horsepower.

Pardon the units; the point is that the Bolt is close in power to weight ratio and the 0-60 times bear that out at 6.5 seconds for the Bolt versus 6.8 for the i3s! Yeah, the Bolt is faster. Note that 6.5 seconds is sports-car quick; this is a great car for darting, passing and zipping around.

The other deciding factors for us were:

  • Increased range of 238 versus 107 miles. I can go a week or more of commuting which makes for easier logistics and a greatly reduced need for a home level 2 charger. At 238, I can charge at work most of the time, which is just awesome.
  • Normal doors, so kid drop-off is easy.
  • Price. We got a 1-payment lease, three years at 10K miles/year, for a total cost of $17K USD including $1100 of ‘excess wear and tear insurance.’ That’s for the Premium trim, with DC fast charger, driver safety package and upgraded stereo.

It’s a really nice car: leather seats, 10.2″ LCD display which excels for maps, excellent Bose stereo, super quiet and a great city and highway car. I would have preferred LED headlamps, but the HIDs are quite acceptable; I liked them on our Audi allroad and they work here. Lots of space and headroom, even for someone as tall as me, and the back seats are good too, two fit well with three in a pinch. I was able to haul all four of us plus luggage for a 1 week trip without blocking the rear window; it’s quite large inside. You sit up with excellent visibility all around, and the camera-in-the-mirror feature is super for situation awareness.

I love that the phone slot in the center is a wireless charger. I use the Lightning cable to connect CarPlay, so wireless is redundant, but it’s still cool.

Pro tip: Pay the extra $115 for ‘Black bow tie logo’ and they replace the gaudy gold logo with black on the front and back. I go in next week to get mine replaced.

I’ll be posting lots more about the Bolt; keep an eye on the EV and Bolt tags here.

Others have complained about the seats; I don’t know why but they are excellent for me at least. Shrug. Dunno there, try before you buy as many have dinged them as uncomfortable.

Negatives so far

  1. No electric seats; manual only even with leather. Odd but no big deal for me.
  2. No sun or moonroof; I like those.
  3. No cooling in the seats. In this warm climate, that’d be nice and our gas Hyundai has them. However, they seem rare in EVs, neither the Leaf nor the i3s has them.
  4. Lower social prestige than BMW or Tesla.
  5. DC fast charging is advertised as ‘up to 80kW’ but its actually much worse, max under 50kW and dropping fast after 50% charged (image links to full report):dc-fast-charge
  6. To get remote updates in the ‘my chevrolet’ app, you have to pony up for OnStar, which goes up to $60 per month. Hell no.
  7. No factory nav system; so you really need an iOS or Android device for navigation or pay up for OnStar.
  8. No free DC fast charge. The BMW and Leaf both have deals for a couple of years of free charges, but given my work situation I’m OK with this.
  9. Everyone, including Chris, gets it confused with the Volt hybrid. Shitty names, Chevrolet! B versus V? Really?

Pictures

 

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Tips and Such

This post has gotten long, so I’ll keep these brief.

  1. Few people know that HOV stickers are max three years. Factor this into your decisions if you live in California.
  2. We also looked at the Honda Clarity fuel cell, and would have loved one but they have a six-month or more wait. Maybe next time.
  3. SDG&E has time-of-use rates for those who charge at home, see their pages for details.
  4. The Costco auto purchase program is excellent; if you are a member its a good way to remove the hassle of haggling for lowest price. We used it for the Leaf, i3s and Bolt and recommend it. The TrueCar program is similar and free.
  5. I would not buy any car without the DC fast charge option. It’s $750 on the Bolt but means that you can recharge halfway in 30ish minutes versus 5 hours.
  6. The upgraded stereo is also worth your money; consider that EVs are much quieter so you actually get quite a bit more enjoyment out of it since the audio details are much easier to hear.
  7. The Supercharger really is the killer feature on Teslas; if an EV is your primary vehicle then the reduction in recharge time is huge. You will need to plan more around charging, since even fast chargers are slower than gasoline or fuel cell refills.
  8. If I make enough money, the combination of solar roof and Tesla Powerwall (big battery) would be elegant and compelling, actually refilling my car from the sun. How cool is that?

Keep it simple: G-Shock GA-800

I was browsing a while ago and for some reason this caught my eye.

That’s the GA-800. Sixty eight bucks on Amazon.

It’s basic for a G. Analog and digital, a rare second hand, even lume on the hands to match the blue dial illumination. Easy to wear, a bit smaller than most.

It lacks gps, barometer, radio set and solar power. The reverse LCD is hard to read at any off angle. The lume is only on the hands and not the dial, so at night you have to use the overly bright light.

Nevertheless I’m delighted with it, it’s an affordable and deeply fun watch. Easy to read the time, very light and comfortable on wrist, and at this price I didn’t flinch when I bashed it on sandstone last weekend.

If the red is too bold for you, there are other colors including black, some with more legible standard LCDs. It’s easy to find on Amazon or wherever; not a jdm or limited edition.

Here’s where I got mine: G-Shock Men’s GA-800 Red One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JH53L9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Cool new fitness tracker

So I know y’all, like me, have Fitness Tracker Burnout. Pebble! Fitbit! Garmin! Apple! Misfit! Jawbone!

(I’ve owned three of those, so I’m right there with you.)

But this, it might still be worthwhile:

Screenshot 2018-05-24 16.21.47

That’s titanium ring with a tracker crammed into it, and according to the MacWorld review it works pretty darn well: three day battery, two colors available, comfortable and basically invisible.

Screenshot 2018-05-24 16.21.55

I’d get the gray version, but for me a ring is much more interesting; even the Apple watch wasn’t able to displace my beloved wristwatches from my wrist forever, and I’m unwilling to wear a watch on one wrist and a tracker on the other.

$199 from Amazon, manufacturer is at mymotiv.com, and read the review to learn more. Nifty stuff.

via Motiv Ring Review | Macworld

nifty data science tool

Perhaps for those of you who do Kaggle competitions or just need some data from Wikipedia:

SImilar to my csvs-to-sqlite tool, but sqlitebiter handles “CSV/Excel/HTML/JSON/LTSV/Markdown/SQLite/SSV/TSV/Google-Sheets”. Most interestingly, it works against HTML pages—run “sqlitebiter -v url ’https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_firewalls’” and it will scrape that Wikipedia page and create a SQLite table for each of the HTML tables it finds there.

via sqlitebiter